Author: Ian Bearder (Page 4 of 73)

Budapest to the Black Sea: Day 8. Rest Day in Belgrade.

Budapest to the Black Sea: Day 6. Vukovar to Novi Sad (Serbia)

 
Last night was probably the most comfortable night’s sleep I’ve had since leaving Kyiv last Sunday. The room was modern, clean and air-conditioned and the bed was comfortable. So, I slept like a baby and woke up feeling rejuvenated. Breakfast was the usual eggs, ham and cheese and after a large coffee we were on the road by 08:00.

I’m still travelling with Dylan, the other Brit I met on the first day of my trip just south of Budapest and I’m glad I’ve had company for this first week as I get used to cycling long days through unfamiliar places.

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Cycling from Budapest to the Black Sea: Day 5. Osijek to Vukovar

Leaving Osijek was easy. We were up early, had breakfast at the 24 bakery opposite and then hit the road. It was an easy morning and as day 5 without a break it was to be a short day and just 50km to Vukovar.

Arriving in Vukovar

Arriving in Vukovar

We stopped for an ice-cream in one on the small villages on route and an exceptionally friendly old man (also on a bike) stopped to talk to us and ask where we were going. He was interested in where we were from and where we were going and as he left he explained that he was Croatian, but an (Serb?) Orthodox and not a Catholic. It was a throw-away comment, but nevertheless a sign of the complicated and perhaps sensitive issue of identity in the region.

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Budapest to the Black Sea: Day 4. Mohacs to Osijek

Szia Hungary, Hello Croatia.

Starting early today, we made good progress along the remaining 40(ish) kilometers of the route out of Hungary which is, pretty much, smooth tarmac paths all the way to the Croatian Border. The border crossing was ridiculously easy and we breezed through without any trouble at all. In fact, everyone was very friendly and the border lady sheepishly handed us some leaflets in English and then smoked a cigarette as we quizzed her and her colleagues about the best place to eat. 

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East or West?

When you get to Southern Hungary, the EuroVelo route splits. I don’t know why it splits, but you can go West through Croatia or East and into Serbia.

I chose to go West through Croatia, not just because I like Croatia (and it’s one more country to visit by bike) but also because the path runs right through one of the most tragic parts of the former Yugoslavia outside of Bosnia and in particular the border town of Vukovar.

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Budapest to the Black Sea: Day 3. Kalocsa to Mohacs

 
“How many Eggs do you want? 2, 3, 4, 5?” The waitress asked me as a walked into the dining room at 07:30am.

“three would be enough” I said, as I piled bread, ham, cheese and cake onto my plate.

After munching through the lot, I loaded the bike, thanked the staff and met Dylan at today’s supermarket of choice which was SPAR. I got lucky with the water again, filled up my water bottles and we set off.

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Budapest to the Black Sea: Day 2. Rackeve to Kalocsa

 
It was so hot last night that my deodorant melted. This was a sure sign that it’s too hot to be cycling, but I wasn’t about to let that stop me. So at 06:30 am I crawled out of bed, had a shower, dried myself in front of the fan (for some reason my B&B didn’t provide a towel) and then loaded my stuff into my panniers and onto the bike.

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Budapest to the Black Sea: Day 1 Budapest to Rackeve

 

All weekend I had been quite stressed. I didn’t really notice just how stressed until Anna (who was visiting for the weekend) told me how tense I looked. Then I realised how much I’d let work, life and this trip wind me up. It’s unusual for me to get stressed, especially about travelling, so I don’t know why this trip was different, but it was.

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Why I am cycling: Part 2

I decided to raise some money to help a group of people who really need it…

The Cause
Джерело Надії (Spring of Hope)


Spring of Hope is a small charity working in central Ukraine to help and support some of the most vulnerable and unsupported people in Europe – including thousands of families who have been displaced by the fighting in Ukraine.


They don’t have a shiny/professional website  and they don’t have the resources that some large aid organisations have but they do have a huge amount to offer as they support those who are trying to cope with circumstances harder than most of us can ever imagine.

How it works 

You can sponsor me via this link.

Your support will keep me going and if you donate even a small amount – you’ll be doing a wonderful thing to help some amazing people. Keep giving and I’ll keep pedalling 🙂

 

Cycling. Why I am doing it.

It’s just three days until I leave Kyiv and start pedalling. I’m slightly nervous, but also quite excited and looking forward to finally starting, even if the weather is set to be stupidly hot next week .

Anyway, when I mention my trip, many people think I’m crazy, some think I wont make it and others who think it’ll be easy. “Cycling to Odessa? meh – it’s nothing” they say.

At different points, often all within a single day, I have believed all of these things.

When I don’t want to do it or I allow my self to think of all the things that could go wrong – I think I’m crazy. When I’m exhausted after some less-than-serious training – I think I will give up after 5 days, and when I’m zipping around forest paths near Kyiv in the sunshine, or when I’m trying to convince others that its a good idea – I’m 100% sure that everything will be fine. The truth is however, I have no idea what will happen or how hard (or not) it will be.

I have never done any serious cycling let alone anything that involves a tent, and I don’t know any serious long-distance cyclists either. The closest thing I’ve done to this is probably a 10-day hike around Mt Blanc, but that was only 10 days and it was exhausting and I just followed my much fitter and much more experienced family.

So, if I don’t have any idea what will happen, why am I doing it? What inspired me?

Well, here are a few reasons I have collected over the past few weeks when pondering the question:

  • It’s summer and I need a summer holiday.
  • The Danube is an iconic European river and it weaves right through the heart of the continent. Among other places, it winds through Bratislava, Budapest and Belgrade so, thanks to various party-boats in each of those places, I have partied on the river, but never followed it.
  • It winds through a part of Europe that fascinates me and which I know quite well, but only by train and only as a visitor to the main towns and cities.
  • I’ve been playing with the idea of doing a Danube adventure since one of our Belgian professors explained how he sailed from the UK to the Black sea (and on to Turkey) …mostly along the Danube.
  • I haven’t done any long, solo travelling for a few years, I miss it and it might be the last chance I get for a while.
  • It will be a good test to see if I can really work and travel at the same time.
  • I read somewhere that they built a cycle path all the way along the river and called it EV6.

Why by bike?

  • Why not?
  • It’s faster than walking, more enjoyable than swimming and cheaper than buying a boat.
  • Cycling is a bit like riding a horse, but without all the shit.
  • Someone built a cycle path along a whole river!

Why Europe?
Well, I have spent most of my adult life travelling in Europe and I’m far from finished.

…and why so far East?
It’s true that I could have taken the more popular EV6 from its start in France, through Western Europe and finished in Budapest, that would have meant going through Austria …and why the hell would I want to go through Austria when I could go through Serbia, Croatia, Bulgaria and Romania?

 

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